Tuesday 19 August 2014

Mediocrity.



A lot of things about me are pretty average, at school I was a C grade who worked her butt off to make it A*, I wear a UK medium size 10-12 (with a plus size butt and shoe size) and I guess I've always been a middle of the road kind of person. 

 In surfing being an intermediate would be something to be proud of. Due to the infrequency of getting to the coast its hard to stay consistent in ability. As every wave is different and every surf spot is a lesson, I feel like I'm constantly getting schooled. To be average at surfing would mean being able to catch green waves 80% of the time and do one or two maneuvers standing, with room for improvement. I'm not fazed anymore by wiping out, I see it as effective ego cleansing. I also know and feel cheered that surfers of any ability will occasionally have the energizing energy bath known as falling off your surfboard. 

I'm not worried about being the best either, I just want to be the surfer having the most fun, which is precisely why I love surfing with the land locked surfers club. We have every ability but our prerogative is always about respect for the ocean and some good old fashioned fun. I'm really looking forward to our impending Scottish surf trip to Pease Bay, not just because I'll finally be getting my toes wet but because of the people who'll be attending. 

The above photos are from my first ever surf trip, on a whim I agreed to go to Brittany in France at the end of University which was the best decision I ever made. I certainly wasn't any good at surfing but when I picked up that board for the first time the love affair began. 
If I can offer any advice to learner surfers it would be to find yourself a group of people who radiate, who help you flourish and make you feel like your having the best fun in the world when you pick up that board. 

Here's looking forward to the wipe outs...

Until next time 
Stay strong and surf well




1 comment:

  1. Have a great time in Scotland! Look forward to hearing all about it!

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