Whilst crying at the end of Chasing Mavericks, this probably being my 60th time of watching it, I began to conjure a blog post related to the reoccurring plot theme of hard work.
Being a land locked surfer makes training for surf that little bit trickier as the saying goes;
'...the only way to train for surfing is to go surfing,'
which is true.
That being said there are some things I believe you can do pre trip to help your body recover quicker post surf and make the most of your limited time at the beach.
1. Train like an athlete.
Swimming didn't work for me, training for a marathon didn't work for me - what built a surfer body (i.e. strong core, big arms, broad shoulders) was yoga.
Now I know I'm biased being a yoga teacher but I swear an hour (my usual) or even just 20 minutes a day (ok, my actual usual)! Has made a difference to my physicality. I am leaner so I'm quicker in my pop ups, all those chatarangas and downward facing dogs have built my triceps up which are one of the primary muscles we use in paddling, and I have a strong core which certainly helps towards balance. I couldn't paddle mavericks but I know that considering my location and lack of surfing I've managed to keep a certain level of fitness up which is what I'll need when I surf Norway next week.
I think it's important to remember that surfers come in all shapes and sizes you don't have to look like an Abercrombie & Fitch model to be able to surf, but I think the important cues from yoga - listening to your body, focusing on your breath, developing a strong mind are all great things to hone.
2. Have a mantra.
As Frosty in Chasing Mavericks so aptly said 'Fear is useful, panic is dangerous,' when I feel scared in a set or am starting to get fatigued I have a little mantra or phrase which helps me keep focused and above all safe in the water.
If things are going ok I say over and over in my mind 'Samsara is Nirvana' which is the Buddhist way of saying no pain, no gain! Paddle, paddle, paddle!
If I'm shit scared and a wave is about to break on my head I usually say:
'Get your shit together.'
Mantras are personal so pick one that feels right to you!
3. Get a Forecast.
I am a habitual procrastinator but pre trip I do look at forecasts, get travel insurance and remember to do admin things to ensure my trip goes as well as possible. I have been stranded on an Island, had my bank card stolen in the airport, got so sick I've had to go to hospital, nearly drowned and even been held at gun point - could you imagine how much worse all of these would have been if I didn't know the swell, the area or not got travel insurance!!!!
4. Eat to thrive.
I'm not a qualified nutritionist but I am a qualified yoga teacher, who has studied the yogic lifestyle, which seems to have been helping yogis for thousands of years! The Yogic diet is based on the three gunas which is a way of eating to aid mindfulness, I have written in depth about it here.
I am going to keep this brief as there is a wealth of information out there and I think healthy eating is very personal to the individual, you have to get to know your own body and the fuel which makes it operate at it's functional best. In my personal example, I have found a mostly vegan diet with occasional halloumi cheats has kept me strong and cleared my skin, cutting out sugar from my tea has given me more energy and preparing meals from scratch has really made a difference.
(Top Tip: Bulk cook on Sundays or buy ingredients as and when for recipes. I've found this has saved me a lot of time and ensures I don't waste money on supermarket deals and promotions as I only buy what I need for that nights meal).
I think the most important gift you can give to your health is the gift of compassion. When it's moon cycle (which is the hippie way of saying period), I don't deny myself chocolate or a little dairy. I've learnt to not be too hard on myself which I was doing when I became a strict vegan. The issues are still very important to me but I can't discuss sustainability, cruelty etc when I am making myself ill or depleted.
5. Think way of life.
Although I still call myself a 'land locked surfer' I try my best to stop compartmentalizing myself purely because I don't live by the sea and am not a pro surfer. Surfing makes me goofy happy and that's important but like everything in life I'm not what I do. The way I make people feel and the compassion I show others and this planet is the point. I don't have to have long hair, a tan, I don't have to surf everyday or ride a short board to be a surfer - You've got to have soul baby.
6. And finally...
Watch some surf films - there's nothing like Chasing Mavericks, Blue Crush or my beloved Point Break which gets me ready for a surf sesh!
Until next time lovebugs!
Mahalo!
x
Being a land locked surfer makes training for surf that little bit trickier as the saying goes;
'...the only way to train for surfing is to go surfing,'
which is true.
That being said there are some things I believe you can do pre trip to help your body recover quicker post surf and make the most of your limited time at the beach.
1. Train like an athlete.
Swimming didn't work for me, training for a marathon didn't work for me - what built a surfer body (i.e. strong core, big arms, broad shoulders) was yoga.
Now I know I'm biased being a yoga teacher but I swear an hour (my usual) or even just 20 minutes a day (ok, my actual usual)! Has made a difference to my physicality. I am leaner so I'm quicker in my pop ups, all those chatarangas and downward facing dogs have built my triceps up which are one of the primary muscles we use in paddling, and I have a strong core which certainly helps towards balance. I couldn't paddle mavericks but I know that considering my location and lack of surfing I've managed to keep a certain level of fitness up which is what I'll need when I surf Norway next week.
I think it's important to remember that surfers come in all shapes and sizes you don't have to look like an Abercrombie & Fitch model to be able to surf, but I think the important cues from yoga - listening to your body, focusing on your breath, developing a strong mind are all great things to hone.
2. Have a mantra.
As Frosty in Chasing Mavericks so aptly said 'Fear is useful, panic is dangerous,' when I feel scared in a set or am starting to get fatigued I have a little mantra or phrase which helps me keep focused and above all safe in the water.
If things are going ok I say over and over in my mind 'Samsara is Nirvana' which is the Buddhist way of saying no pain, no gain! Paddle, paddle, paddle!
If I'm shit scared and a wave is about to break on my head I usually say:
'Get your shit together.'
Mantras are personal so pick one that feels right to you!
3. Get a Forecast.
I am a habitual procrastinator but pre trip I do look at forecasts, get travel insurance and remember to do admin things to ensure my trip goes as well as possible. I have been stranded on an Island, had my bank card stolen in the airport, got so sick I've had to go to hospital, nearly drowned and even been held at gun point - could you imagine how much worse all of these would have been if I didn't know the swell, the area or not got travel insurance!!!!
4. Eat to thrive.
I'm not a qualified nutritionist but I am a qualified yoga teacher, who has studied the yogic lifestyle, which seems to have been helping yogis for thousands of years! The Yogic diet is based on the three gunas which is a way of eating to aid mindfulness, I have written in depth about it here.
I am going to keep this brief as there is a wealth of information out there and I think healthy eating is very personal to the individual, you have to get to know your own body and the fuel which makes it operate at it's functional best. In my personal example, I have found a mostly vegan diet with occasional halloumi cheats has kept me strong and cleared my skin, cutting out sugar from my tea has given me more energy and preparing meals from scratch has really made a difference.
(Top Tip: Bulk cook on Sundays or buy ingredients as and when for recipes. I've found this has saved me a lot of time and ensures I don't waste money on supermarket deals and promotions as I only buy what I need for that nights meal).
I think the most important gift you can give to your health is the gift of compassion. When it's moon cycle (which is the hippie way of saying period), I don't deny myself chocolate or a little dairy. I've learnt to not be too hard on myself which I was doing when I became a strict vegan. The issues are still very important to me but I can't discuss sustainability, cruelty etc when I am making myself ill or depleted.
5. Think way of life.
Although I still call myself a 'land locked surfer' I try my best to stop compartmentalizing myself purely because I don't live by the sea and am not a pro surfer. Surfing makes me goofy happy and that's important but like everything in life I'm not what I do. The way I make people feel and the compassion I show others and this planet is the point. I don't have to have long hair, a tan, I don't have to surf everyday or ride a short board to be a surfer - You've got to have soul baby.
6. And finally...
Watch some surf films - there's nothing like Chasing Mavericks, Blue Crush or my beloved Point Break which gets me ready for a surf sesh!
Until next time lovebugs!
Mahalo!
x
Love that curves. I wonder if SUP can help achieve that figure. Snowcoast Canada
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