I didn't go abroad until I was seventeen, I worked in a golf club for a year until I'd saved up enough to spend one month working on a conservation project in Croatia. To this day I still have a girlish mix of fear, wonderment and utter disbelief when I find myself in a different country. For many years Africa has been the siren call and I've answered every time. Getting surf in West and South Africa was life changing in many ways but Africa has always felt like home.
I've had a fascination with Central & South America ever since childhood, watching jungle documentaries on BBC One. This May I had the luck and privilege to go to Costa Rica and surf in the warm waters of Jaco Beach, 2 hours away from San Jose. For once I wasn't a solo traveler and had the travel companion of my beloved Mr Sunshine (the boyfriend)!
When you first get off the plan the humidity feels like your living in an armpit, there wasn't a day when my face wasn't shiny with sweat. Flying from a UK time zone makes jet lag a reality too so for the first few days both Mr Sunshine and I stumbled around in a tired daze. This did not distract us from the fact we were living in paradise. Sipping water on the balcony I could watch red macaw parrots fly from tree to tree and at nigh the chirp of insects made me wonder what I'd share my bed with later!
But enough of that. Let's talk about the waves.
I'm not going to get technical and discuss the height or geography of Jaco beach, I'm going to tell you how it made me feel. Ever since Morocco my love for longboards has been growing and so when I spotted a beauty in the hostel surf hire, I didn't hesitate to give her a spin. In Costa Rica surf culture is rife so the break is a crowded but not unpleasant one. The pura vida (pure life) ethos makes Costa Ricans (particularly the surfers) amazing, wonderful people. As a female surfer it was awesome seeing a line up littered with local girls and I found myself whooping encouragement when I saw a senorita catch a good wave.
On the first day of surfing I took a lesson, mostly because I could support Mr Sunshine as he learns but partly because I like to get to know the locals and have some respect for local knowledge. A short boarder called John quickly realized I was a different level to Mr Sunshine so took me straight out back where I spent the next two hours getting ride after beautiful ride.
Then it happened.
Three years into surfing I got told by a Costa Rican local that I'm an 'advanced' surfer. I then proceeded to turn my board as though I've mastered this for years (not the case). His compliment was music to my ears, after years of surfing cold British waters, sporadic trips every four months or so, the land locked depression, despite it all I've learnt how to surf.
Its funny, because although I appreciated the compliment I realize I didn't need the validation. Perhaps I'm eking into soul surfer territory here, but I've reached a stage in my surfing where standing up isn't the priority, neither is catching a perfect wave. Its more than that, it's about reconnecting with myself when I'm sat astride my board, meeting and becoming friends with amazing like minded people and loving the sea for all that she is, an amazing ecosystem.
Costa Rica was AMAZING but I've come to appreciate that surfing doesn't only have to be about exotic locations, warm water and tans. Surfing can be anything you want it to be, the same as happiness can be found being mashed up in the North Sea wearing a wet suit so thick you feel like the Michelin man.
Each to their own I say!
*Unfortunately I got my camera stolen on the last day so these are the only photos I have from off my phone! Hence the shocking quality!
Until next time,
Stay strong, surf well
Love
I've had a fascination with Central & South America ever since childhood, watching jungle documentaries on BBC One. This May I had the luck and privilege to go to Costa Rica and surf in the warm waters of Jaco Beach, 2 hours away from San Jose. For once I wasn't a solo traveler and had the travel companion of my beloved Mr Sunshine (the boyfriend)!
When you first get off the plan the humidity feels like your living in an armpit, there wasn't a day when my face wasn't shiny with sweat. Flying from a UK time zone makes jet lag a reality too so for the first few days both Mr Sunshine and I stumbled around in a tired daze. This did not distract us from the fact we were living in paradise. Sipping water on the balcony I could watch red macaw parrots fly from tree to tree and at nigh the chirp of insects made me wonder what I'd share my bed with later!
But enough of that. Let's talk about the waves.
I'm not going to get technical and discuss the height or geography of Jaco beach, I'm going to tell you how it made me feel. Ever since Morocco my love for longboards has been growing and so when I spotted a beauty in the hostel surf hire, I didn't hesitate to give her a spin. In Costa Rica surf culture is rife so the break is a crowded but not unpleasant one. The pura vida (pure life) ethos makes Costa Ricans (particularly the surfers) amazing, wonderful people. As a female surfer it was awesome seeing a line up littered with local girls and I found myself whooping encouragement when I saw a senorita catch a good wave.
On the first day of surfing I took a lesson, mostly because I could support Mr Sunshine as he learns but partly because I like to get to know the locals and have some respect for local knowledge. A short boarder called John quickly realized I was a different level to Mr Sunshine so took me straight out back where I spent the next two hours getting ride after beautiful ride.
Then it happened.
Three years into surfing I got told by a Costa Rican local that I'm an 'advanced' surfer. I then proceeded to turn my board as though I've mastered this for years (not the case). His compliment was music to my ears, after years of surfing cold British waters, sporadic trips every four months or so, the land locked depression, despite it all I've learnt how to surf.
Its funny, because although I appreciated the compliment I realize I didn't need the validation. Perhaps I'm eking into soul surfer territory here, but I've reached a stage in my surfing where standing up isn't the priority, neither is catching a perfect wave. Its more than that, it's about reconnecting with myself when I'm sat astride my board, meeting and becoming friends with amazing like minded people and loving the sea for all that she is, an amazing ecosystem.
Costa Rica was AMAZING but I've come to appreciate that surfing doesn't only have to be about exotic locations, warm water and tans. Surfing can be anything you want it to be, the same as happiness can be found being mashed up in the North Sea wearing a wet suit so thick you feel like the Michelin man.
Each to their own I say!
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| First stop Madrid! We had a two day lay over here which was awesome! |
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| We had the pleasure of watching pros at Hermosa beach at the weekly surf contest. |
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| As you can see sweat is an accessory in Costa Rica, wear it with a smile and it's ok!!! |
Until next time,
Stay strong, surf well
Love
