Monday 2 March 2015

The dry spell.

My aversion to the sea of late is largely due  to self preservation. Such is my love for surfing that constantly longing for it during an absence actually hurts. So like a facebook purge I began trying to delete it out of my life in the hope that making it disappear out of my sight, would somehow heal the constant impulse to jump in a car and get to the coast.

Except this doesnt work
Because I am the ocean and the ocean is me. 

 






















I can't neglect my blog or try to close my ears to murmurs of surf because I'm both a writer and a surfer. Trying to shut either of these two versions of myself out is like lopping off a finger or a toe - there is absolutely no good reason to do it. 

When I heard of friends going for surf sesh I had a curl of jealousy such is my obsession. It was starting to become quite an ugly mindset until I took a step back and examined my thoughts. 

I have been demotivated and largely apathetic to all things marine at the moment because I am tired, city dwelling and overworked. But after some reflection I've come to ascertain that this dry spell is actually quite necessary. I'm trying to construct things in my present tense to actually enable a life of surf, wildlife, travel and more time with my loved ones. In order to accomplish this I need to work hard now and make a few sacrifices today to reap the fruits of my labour later on.

The sea might seem a distant memory but there are plans in motion, there is Morocco and there is Costa Rica to look forward to. These will happen this year and I shall work my butt off now to truly understand and appreciate these experiences of warm water surfing later on. 

So to conclude this meandering ramble, if you are frustrated and forlorn don't luxuriate too much in these sensations, exhale and remember your in process. 

Until next time,
stay strong, surf well 
Love






 

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