Pura Vida

I didn't go abroad until I was seventeen, I worked in a golf club for a year until I'd saved up enough to spend one month working on a conservation project in Croatia. To this day I still have a girlish mix of fear, wonderment and utter disbelief when I find myself in a different country. For many years Africa has been the siren call and I've answered every time. Getting surf in West and South Africa was life changing in many ways but Africa has always felt like home. 

I've had a fascination with Central & South America ever since childhood, watching jungle documentaries on BBC One. This May I had the luck and privilege to go to Costa Rica and surf in the warm waters of Jaco Beach, 2 hours away from San Jose. For once I wasn't a solo traveler and had the travel companion of my beloved Mr Sunshine (the boyfriend)! 

When you first get off the plan the humidity feels like your living in an armpit, there wasn't a day when my face wasn't shiny with sweat. Flying from a UK time zone makes jet lag a reality too so for the first few days both Mr Sunshine and I stumbled around in a tired daze. This did not distract us from the fact we were living in paradise. Sipping water on the balcony I could watch red macaw parrots fly from tree to tree and at nigh the chirp of insects made me wonder what I'd share my bed with later! 

But enough of that. Let's talk about the waves. 

I'm not going to get technical and discuss the height or geography of Jaco beach, I'm going to tell you how it made me feel. Ever since Morocco my love for longboards has been growing and so when I spotted a beauty in the hostel surf hire, I didn't hesitate to give her a spin. In Costa Rica surf culture is rife so the break is a crowded but not unpleasant one. The pura vida (pure life) ethos makes Costa Ricans (particularly the surfers) amazing, wonderful people. As a female surfer it was awesome seeing a line up littered with local girls and I found myself whooping encouragement when I saw a senorita catch a good wave. 

On the first day of surfing I took a lesson, mostly because I could support Mr Sunshine as he learns but partly because I like to get to know the locals and have some respect for local knowledge. A short boarder called John quickly realized I was a different level to Mr Sunshine so took me straight out back where I spent the next two hours getting ride after beautiful ride. 

Then it happened.

 Three years into surfing I got told by a Costa Rican local that I'm an 'advanced' surfer. I then proceeded to turn my board as though I've mastered this for years (not the case). His compliment was music to my ears, after years of surfing cold British waters, sporadic trips every four months or so, the land locked depression, despite it all I've learnt how to surf. 

Its funny, because although I appreciated the compliment I realize I didn't need the validation. Perhaps I'm eking into soul surfer territory here, but I've reached a stage in my surfing where  standing up isn't the priority, neither is catching a perfect wave. Its more than that, it's about reconnecting with myself when I'm sat astride my board, meeting and becoming friends with amazing like minded people and loving the sea for all that she is, an amazing ecosystem. 

Costa Rica was AMAZING but I've come to appreciate that surfing doesn't only have to be about exotic locations, warm water and tans. Surfing can be anything you want it to be, the same as happiness can be found being mashed up in the North Sea wearing a wet suit so thick you feel like the Michelin man. 

Each to their own I say! 

 *Unfortunately I got my camera stolen on the last day so these are the only photos I have from off my phone! Hence the shocking quality!

First stop Madrid! We had a two day lay over here which was awesome! 

We had the pleasure of watching pros at Hermosa beach at the weekly surf contest. 

As you can see sweat is an accessory in Costa Rica, wear it with a smile and it's ok!!! 

Until next time, 

Stay strong, surf well 
Love 

The dry spell.

My aversion to the sea of late is largely due  to self preservation. Such is my love for surfing that constantly longing for it during an absence actually hurts. So like a facebook purge I began trying to delete it out of my life in the hope that making it disappear out of my sight, would somehow heal the constant impulse to jump in a car and get to the coast.

Except this doesnt work. 
Because I am the ocean and the ocean is me. 

 






















I can't neglect my blog or try to close my ears to murmurs of surf because I'm both a writer and a surfer. Trying to shut either of these two versions of myself out is like lopping off a finger or a toe - there is absolutely no good reason to do it. 

When I heard of friends going for surf sesh I had a curl of jealousy such is my obsession. It was starting to become quite an ugly mindset until I took a step back and examined my thoughts. 

I have been demotivated and largely apathetic to all things marine at the moment because I am tired, city dwelling and overworked. But after some reflection I've come to ascertain that this dry spell is actually quite necessary. I'm trying to construct things in my present tense to actually enable a life of surf, wildlife, travel and more time with my loved ones. In order to accomplish this I need to work hard now and make a few sacrifices today to reap the fruits of my labour later on.

The sea might seem a distant memory but there are plans in motion, there is Morocco and there is Costa Rica to look forward to. These will happen this year and I shall work my butt off now to truly understand and appreciate these experiences of warm water surfing later on. 

So to conclude this meandering ramble, if you are frustrated and forlorn don't luxuriate too much in these sensations, exhale and remember your in process. 

Until next time,
stay strong, surf well 
Love

 

Namaste surfer.

Wouldn't be a very good surf yogini now would I if I didn't provide you with some yoga advice to improve your surfing?! 

Having being a keen runner, swimmer and gym bunny I can vouch with all the credibility of a certified yoga teacher that yoga seems (in my opinion) the best exercise to compliment your surfing. On an anatomical level yoga increases core strength which contributes to better balance (which you sure as hell need when trying to stand up on a moving board)! The balance postures such as eagle pose, warrior III etc challenge your brain increasing your concentration and all that stretching can help prevent injury. 

Perhaps the most important benefit of yoga is that it creates mindfulness and focus through meditation and pranayma (breathing) techniques. When the fear factor starts to take over in a big wave situation it is the breathing techniques I use in my yoga practice which drags my attention back to the present and helps me regain my composure. Here are a few yoga moves which I feel really help with improving your surfing (when your stuck on land like me and need something to do)! 

Upward facing dog.  

Up dog is a good surf move for various reasons. Firstly it is great for the lower back and for stretching out the abdominal muscles. I find this asana (posture) particularly good because it reminds you to keep your hands by the side of your chest when inhaling up, this is exactly the same placement of the hands for an effective pop up. Placing the hands anywhere but at the side of your chest causes the board to wobble and for you to wipe out. 

Chaturanga (yoga push ups).

They are brutal but my gosh they work! Chaturanga i.e. yoga push ups are all about upper body strength and core. If you repeatedly do these in a vinyasa flow sequence you will make your pop ups a hundred times easier. 

Kakasana (crow pose) 

Crow pose might not look like an obvious posture for surfing but it is a balance and any balance is great for mental focus and concentration. This also happens to target the upper arms again helping with those pop ups. Below is a step by step guide follow from left to right to accomplish this pose. 

 Salabhasana & Dhanurasana (Locust & bow pose) 

Both locust and bow pose mimic the position the lower back is in when your paddling out on a surf board. As the lower back is such a delicate area any asana which strengthens this is good in the long run. Remember your only as young as your spine! 

Mediation.

 

Don't wish for it, work for it. Make time in your schedule to meditate, make it a priority as routine as brushing your teeth. Help yourself be a better surfer by visualizing riding those waves creating mental clarity necessary to accomplish just that.  

There are a multitude of asanas (the yogic way of saying postures) that I could have included in this guide but these are the ones which stand out in my mind as being particularly beneficial. Get your butt to a yoga class near you and start seeing the positive ramifications in your life. 

Until next time,

Stay strong and surf well

Love

Happy, sparkly, surf things.

  

Where to begin? Life has been moving at a chaotic pace lately, so busy in fact that I haven't even had the time to do normal everyday stuff like moisturize my body! It sounds like a luxury to moisturize but what it really means is that I haven't had a minute to myself, to dedicate to the task of keeping my skin supple. 

I want to lay it bare to you dear blog readers that in actuality I've been quite miserable of late. Its not surprising really, there is no space for happiness when life accelerates at such a fast pace. I've been pulling 14 hour shifts at work, not seeing my beloved boyfriend, no surf or skate (since last week), barely having time to do yoga and well meditation has gone right out of the window. It's all in aid of future plans I'm saving like a squirrel burying nuts for harsher times, but hey there needs to be a balance between sensibleness and fun. 

I'm no stranger to being a nomad but I'm finding my drifting between my base at my parent's house and that of my boyfriend's is making me a bit like flotsam and jetsam. Floating between these two places means armfuls of luggage which I drag on and off trains and a general sense of displacement. At the ripe age of twenty six I'm starting to yearn for roots- Isn't that funny? Not so long ago the thought of a homestead would have caused me to run for the horizon but now I crave it. Living with my parents (despite them being the best parents on the planet FACT) is a bit like waiting in a doctors office, you know you can't leave but that call to be seen feels like forever, so you have to remain there suspended between arriving and leaving. 

I've neglected this here blog too, as my regular readers may have noticed posts have been a bit sparse recently. In truth I have been completely exhausted, too exhausted to muster up the energy to create engaging content. So forgive me, here is a post about being a hapless twenty something and a few nice, sparkly surf pictures that have caught my magpie eye! Not groundbreaking but its the truth! 

You know as much as these moments of frustration drain us they also act as catalysts because they force you to reevaluate and make changes. I'm excited and optimistic about what I'll learn through this little rough patch. Now for drawing, music and a little meditation to get my happy Sophia hat back on! 

I am a woman child- still unable to dress appropriately for the weather and never with a functional umbrella!
This 'look' is Michaela Strachan meets Saba Douglas Hamilton which will make perfect sense if your a wildlife geek like me! 

Until next time, 

Stay strong, surf well 

Love 

   

The Surf Hack 2015

According to the surf survival guide the majority of surfers are land locked (unless you live in Hawaii), which means most of us who are half sea creature half land mammal are constantly fighting a loosing battle to surf more, work less. 

I know I'm supposed to be a compassionate Buddhist but the thought of there being more frustrated land locked surfers out there actually cheers me up. If instagram is anything to go by all surfers live in California/Hawaii/Oz,  are tanned, have an attractive amount of sand on their bronzed butt cheeks/wear board shorts all year round and don't have to walk more than a meter for perfect waves. Hawaiians/Australians/Californians please let me introduce you to mud brown waves, don't be alarmed a sewage plant hasn't had a leak this is what the North sea looks like...

There are 365 days in a year and 52 weekends which means even if you surf just once a month that is 12 opportunities to be in the water. 12 might not seem like a lot but factor in work, relationships and other commitments and suddenly 12 seems loads! So here's a sure fire way to make sure you get your saltwater quota. 

Think like a surfer. 

So I have this surfer friend who to Joe Suburban might seem like he's so laid back he's practically horizontal. However this mellow attitude disguises an intensely passionate surfer who works his butt off during the summer months to afford to go live in places like Bali/Mexico etc and live the dream. So what is the lesson here? Prioritize surfing. A night out might set you back some serious coinage, so perhaps skip the booze up or at least sip water instead, save those pennies towards trips. You won't regret getting pissed when your catching aqua blue waves wearing only a bikini in the hot, beautiful sunshine!

Have a plan. 

If your anything like me life has a tendency to suddenly get busy with prior engagements, important events, weddings, etc. Now this might sound radical but get yourself one of those, PAPER, yes I said it PAPER wall calenders and write down all your commitments now. Right now. Yes you, I said go and do it now! Once you have an idea of how your year looks you can start to plan surf trips around the 'can't miss' stuff. 

If possible book in advance, square annual leave with your boss, have some plans in place and if it doesn't hurt the bank account pay for trips in advance so you don't have nasty unexpected bills later on. 

Have surfer friends. 

Find surfers and/or willing surfers and rope them into trips, widen your circle so you don't have to rely on just one person to go travelling with. I love solo travel but this is not for everyone and unless your Kelly Slater its not really safe to surf by yourself either. If you surround yourself with positive, motivated people your more likely to go surfing rather than giving in and settling down for a Netflix series! 

Book flights/train travel/car shares asap 

The earlier you book things the cheaper they tend to be so try your best to book transport in advance, you'll save yourself a heap of cash! If your a driver then ensure you keep a little money on the side for petrol, its amazing how much cars guzzle the stuff when your chasing the waves! 

Look into alternative accommodation 

Surf hostels tend to be cheap as surfers in general are a fairly easy tourist to please (room to hang a wet suit and just somewhere to sleep please). Have you explored other avenues though, especially if your just two people off on a trip? AirBnB is a fantastic site that allows you to stay in people's houses for a few days to a week. Mr Sunshine and I did this when we visited Brighton last year, we were in a massive luxury house, had tea facilities didn't see the hosts at all really and best of all it was cheaper than a caravan!!! Speaking of caravans if there's a group of you these are the most inexpensive I've found in terms of nice accommodation, don't sniff at them, they are fab! Failing that camp my darlings! 

Look around your doorstep

Surfing doesn't have to mean an exotic long haul flight to costa rica, google your nearest surfing beach and try there, visit old haunts or for something really different look at local lakes to see if they do paddle boarding as an option. I recently discovered Birmingham, yes Birmingham has a paddle board club on Edgbaston reservoir, 10 minutes away from the city center. Ok its not catching waves but its still on a board!! 

Happy surfing my lovelies, hope you catch some waves this year! 

Stay strong, surf well
Love 

Tonglen.

    

Two weaknesses leaning together constitute a strength. therefore the one half of the world leaning against the other half becomes firm.' - Leonardo Da Vinci (1452-1519) 

Why am I sending you a big kiss today world? Because the news lately is utterly terrifying with horrors happening against innocent people. In our grief for those victims its hard to comprehend suffering or begin to understand it. It is here I retreat to Buddhist teachings of absorbing negativity and sending out healing. I don't pretend to be able to solve the world's problems, but despite the shame, drudgery and broken dreams it is still a beautiful place, good exists and as Ghandi rightly said we must be the change we wish to see.

In Buddhism there is a practice of transforming pain called Tonglen, it allows us to help heal suffering in the world, transforming it through positive loving thoughts. After spending most of Tuesday sobbing after hearing about the sieges in Australia, Pakistan  and the awful, awful suffering endured by Kenyan street children at the mercy of quite frankly an evil man, I was feeling both furiously angry and frustrated. I was so troubled I couldn't sleep so sat on the floor of my bedroom reading books. 

I recalled an extract written by the Dalai lama on the subject of the Chinese. For many years the Chinese had been killing and trying to wipe out Buddhism in Tibet, behavior which should have elicited anger and hatred from the Dalai Lama. Instead he saw his enemies as an opportunity to learn of tolerance and visualized the Chinese during their decision making processes. He sent them healing and positive thoughts so they perhaps might act more compassionately when making choices about Tibet. 

In my little attic room in my parents house, I tried to visualize the Kenyan street children and the victims of the sieges sending them all the love and healing my heart possesses. Of course this alone is not enough to help, we must act practically and behave with compassion but as Confucius rightly said; 

'First there must be order and harmony within your own mind. Then this order will spread to your family, then to the community and finally your entire kingdom. Only then can you have peace and harmony.' (Confucius 551-479BCE). 

I'm sharing an apple with Bruh bunny as we speak and reflecting on what I can do in the parameters of my own life to try and make positive ripples out into the world. I'll let you know what I come up with...

Until next time, 

Stay strong and surf well

Love

Hey, its been a while...

For regular readers of 'Real Women have curves and surfboards,' it may have appeared that things had gone awry. In the last couple of weeks there have been visits to hospital by ambulance (It's ok, I'm right as rain now), yoga exams and a trip to Morocco, (in that order), all of which have massively distracted me from blogging. 

I decided to use all that disarray as an excuse to shake up my little place in cyber space. As much as I love the title 'Real women have curves and surfboards,' with it being a quote about my beloved Marge Calhoun, I realized it was causing some confusion. I took it into account that our lovely lithe ladies were seeing it as a criticism of a slender frame. As a feminist who believes in gender equality for all I realized something needed to change. I also believe I've entered a new phase in my life and wish to continue promoting an inclusive, accessible blog site, which feels true to me. 

Thus THE SURF YOGINI was born. 

After some trippy experiences during meditation, the elephant came forward as a massive symbol for me in that it represents Ganesh, the mover of obstacles and cultivator of inner strength. I am both a surfer and a yoga girl these days so I thought THE SURF YOGINI was a nice little summary of those two aspects of my life. 

Thankfully I didn't take 'hospital selfies' during my stay (nobody needs to see that), so I'll share with you some holiday snaps instead. My trip to Morocco wasn't a surfing holiday but I fell in love with the country ayway and now that I know Marakkech is only 2 hours away from the incredible surfing beach of Essaouira I think I'll be booking return flights post haste! The trip was a bit of a milestone as its the first holiday away with the beloved Mr Sunny (the boyfriend), which I think was a resounding success! After illness, the stress of exams and a very hectic work life the trip couldn't have come at a better time. 

 

 Morocco really is a must see country, the culture and art of the place could keep you interested for a life time. The above photo was taken in a feminism exhibition we literally stumbled upon (it was a random door in the wall). 

Anyway that's enough smug holiday photos for one post!  

Until next time, 

Stay strong and surf well

Love