First I want you to watch this video.
Ok so now we're on the same page lets talk about the late great Rell Sunn (who inspired the wonderful Easkey Britton in this empowering speech).
'Surfer. Disc jockey. Hula instructor. Freediver. Youth speaker. Black belt. Contest director. Lifeguard. Teacher. Waianae Cancer Research Project Guide. Queen of Makaha. While Rell Sunn didn't deliver surfing to the world as Duke Kahanamoku had done in the '10s and '20s, she gave innumerable youths on Hawaii's impoverished West Side something to live for by delivering them into the world of surfing. Quite simply, from Duke's passing in 1968 until cancer cut her life short toward the close of the century, there was no better Hawaiian representative for the sport of surfing than Sunn.
Sunn lived her entire life on Oahu's West Side. She began surfing at age four and never strayed from the ocean. A dedicated diver, canoe paddler and surfer, she became the most accomplished waterwoman and best female longboarder in the world. She attended the 1966 world contest and, a decade later, played a vital role in starting a world tour for women.
- Surfline
What. A. Woman.
I woke up today nursing that mild irritation I get when I start to miss the ocean. Its only been a week but already I'm pining for the big blue (even if surfing in UK waters makes me come out looking like a smurf...the word is cold.)
Next year as I embark on a new career change, I have the opportunity to study away from Birmingham and even more wonderfully the potential to live by the ocean. I can barely comprehend the excitement for getting to know a surf break and becoming inaugurated with the locals, to have a proper surf family and the potential to become really good. I hear you all shouting to do it, how wonderful to write a blog about surfing and actually live near some surf?!!
Its never as easy as that though is it? I have good work here, family and friends and well there's also some other stuff going on here too.
It's funny this year I haven't had my annual pilgrimage somewhere, I up and leave the UK to travel and 2013 is the first year I haven't done this. Weirdly though I feel happier, I've traveled more around this fair isle than I ever have done and what's even better is that I feel that innate kind of happiness that comes with genuinely being content with your lot rather than constantly striving.
Although I've got a rough plan for once I'm not agonizing what to do next.
Have wetsuit will travel.
And that's that!
Until next time stay strong and surf well
Love Sophia
Ok so now we're on the same page lets talk about the late great Rell Sunn (who inspired the wonderful Easkey Britton in this empowering speech).
'Surfer. Disc jockey. Hula instructor. Freediver. Youth speaker. Black belt. Contest director. Lifeguard. Teacher. Waianae Cancer Research Project Guide. Queen of Makaha. While Rell Sunn didn't deliver surfing to the world as Duke Kahanamoku had done in the '10s and '20s, she gave innumerable youths on Hawaii's impoverished West Side something to live for by delivering them into the world of surfing. Quite simply, from Duke's passing in 1968 until cancer cut her life short toward the close of the century, there was no better Hawaiian representative for the sport of surfing than Sunn.
Sunn lived her entire life on Oahu's West Side. She began surfing at age four and never strayed from the ocean. A dedicated diver, canoe paddler and surfer, she became the most accomplished waterwoman and best female longboarder in the world. She attended the 1966 world contest and, a decade later, played a vital role in starting a world tour for women.
- Surfline
What. A. Woman.
I woke up today nursing that mild irritation I get when I start to miss the ocean. Its only been a week but already I'm pining for the big blue (even if surfing in UK waters makes me come out looking like a smurf...the word is cold.)
Next year as I embark on a new career change, I have the opportunity to study away from Birmingham and even more wonderfully the potential to live by the ocean. I can barely comprehend the excitement for getting to know a surf break and becoming inaugurated with the locals, to have a proper surf family and the potential to become really good. I hear you all shouting to do it, how wonderful to write a blog about surfing and actually live near some surf?!!
Its never as easy as that though is it? I have good work here, family and friends and well there's also some other stuff going on here too.
It's funny this year I haven't had my annual pilgrimage somewhere, I up and leave the UK to travel and 2013 is the first year I haven't done this. Weirdly though I feel happier, I've traveled more around this fair isle than I ever have done and what's even better is that I feel that innate kind of happiness that comes with genuinely being content with your lot rather than constantly striving.
Although I've got a rough plan for once I'm not agonizing what to do next.
Have wetsuit will travel.
And that's that!
Until next time stay strong and surf well
Love Sophia
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