Like a surfer.

I find myself on a Monday lunch time in an upmarket city restaurant. Around me are those wearing nice suits they look corporate but not unhappy in their smart attire. Me in my paisley shirt and jeans would have perhaps felt a little out of place if I wasn't so happy with my lot. I like musing about what these people might do for a living and what important jobs they must have that allows them the luxury of a restaurant meal lunchtime. 
Sometimes I find myself tinged with envy knowing that I do 14 hour shifts without breaks and for a lot less but then this is life, I'm in process and this is what I need to do in order to realize my dreams. 

A colleague of mine recently said that nothing worth having comes easily for which I agree. It instantly made me think of surfing and how this little hobby of mine continues to be a vector for change in my life and my own personal metaphor on how to live. 

Surfing is all about effort, working to get in place, being aware, staying in the moment and using that inner power we all possess to go for that wave. In order to be in the right place to take off on the wave you have to paddle, paddle, paddle. Paddle like Samsara is Nirvana (the Buddhist's version of no pain, no gain)! 
Before you even get to the paddling stage however there is a whole step process that has to happen, you need to know the wave forecast, watch from the beach to time the sets, keep an eye out for said sets and then check where the rip current is. Sometimes it seems incredulous the amount of effort put into surfing for a few seconds worth of ride, but my gosh is it worth it! 

With that in mind here is my surf inspired 'go getter list.' 

Live life like a surfer. 


STEP 1. BE PREPARED.

Drag on a wet suit. Warm Up. Stretch. Check the waves. Find a spot in the line up. Wait. 
In surfing there are a multitude of things to do before you even get in the water, there are even things to do on land which will help condition you for the exertion you are going to do on your board. Anything from yoga flow, to swimming, to weight training, all can help improve the quality of your surfing. This is a good example for anything you aspire to do in life, be prepared, train, get the right equipment and plan. Its what I'm doing for realizing my yoga dream. 

STEP 2. DON'T BE AFRAID. 

What with sharks, rip currents and waves which look like billowing monsters its easy to be so intimidated by the ocean that you never actually get in there. Whatever you do in life there is scope for danger and failure, better to be as wised up as you can and fearless than to live a life half lived. 

STEP 3. PADDLE, PADDLE, PADDLE. 

Getting to the sweet spot where you know your going to catch a wave takes patience and a lot of effort. Sometimes the white water is frothing so much you get pushed back several times before you manage to make it out back. There will always be things greater than you trying to push you back but if you put in the right amount of effort you can conquer anything you put your mind to. Be like the surfer getting outback, work your ass off to be where you want to be! 

STEP 4. THE LEAP OF FAITH. 

Hearing the roar of a stella wave behind you can sometimes turn your arms to noodles and make you feel like your trying to paddle through syrup, this is the moment where you either catch a wave or wipe out. I can guarantee (having done it all the time) that the quickest way to wipe out is to bottle it and not muster the courage to take the drop. Life is scary but if you commit you might just catch that radical wave. 

STEP 5. REFLECT. 

One of my favorite places in the whole wide world is sat astride my board waiting for a set to come in. I am at peace and have a moments respite to take stock and reflect on how awesome what I'm doing is. We all need this time, an opportunity to look around and acknowledge how far we've come. Try to do this in your everyday life, take a look around and find slithers of happiness in the extraordinary ordinary. 

Right I'm getting into dangerously preachy territory and lets be honest I'm already a bit of a cheesy yogic surfer bum so let's leave it there for a day! 

Until next time 
Stay strong, surf well
Love