A Lucia Griggi Interview.

So the saying goes 'a pictures paints a thousand words,' which couldn't be more apt when looking at a Lucia Griggi photograph. Your mind conjures words like, fearlessness, adventure, femininity and power. World renowned for both her stunning surf photographs and for her strong work ethic, she piqued my interest in wanting to approach her for an interview. A friend of mine recently participated in a photography course run by Lucia and it was reports of her warmth which made me determined to speak with her. 

I'm both awed and honored by her immediate friendliness and in reading her interview you'll recognize the strong, open person which shines through her answers. With a lot of criticism surfacing in the world of women's surfing recently, I wanted to create a positive culture by highlighting the women who live openly and honestly. 
So without further ado here is Lucia Griggi in her own words and photographs. Mahalo.

 

If you were given only a minute to explain who you are and what you do, what would be the main points?

Mel Gibson summed it up in Braveheart: “FREEDOM!” Once you get a taste of life on the road, it becomes an addiction. This is a big, interesting, fascinating, troubled, wonderful world we live in. Once you see a bit of it, you want to see all of it and I know I will never see it all: Change is a constant.

I don’t know if I could work in an office and do the same thing, day after day. I think I would go mad. The ocean as my office and my commute changes from day to day, season to season. I live as simply as I can, but I travel with very sophisticated equipment which allows me to document what I see and experience, and share that with others. My life isn’t easy. It changes from day to day and I have to think on my feet, but I love it.

As an accomplished surfer and photographer being new at it probably seems a long time ago but can you tell us how you first got into surfing and how long it took to feel like you were competent?

This took a long time. I was so determined to surf and I loved every minute of it. Well most! I would say two years to understand it and to trim a wave properly but to really surf I’m still learning every wave I catch. I love to surf every day: morning or evening in California when the sun rises and when it sets are my favorite times. I was in the water the other day and had the privilege of surfing with three other girls - one being my great girlfriend Jamie and the other two we had just met but were very inspiring. I love to see girls surfing and having fun together.

How did surf photography evolve into becoming a lifestyle for you?

In 2000 I began shooting surfers in the United Kingdom with a Nikon D100. In the summer of 2004 I drove my van to Europe to shoot the Mundaka contest and then the contest in France. My first published photo was in Carve Magazine, and I gained momentum from there.

It took a while, to say the least. The journey has been long and testing but I never gave up on my dream to keep my passion as my job and support myself with what I love to do. My photography came into place when I started to travel with surfing and I felt I needed a purpose to travel. I loved to document what I saw and experienced. I soon started to get published while using my dads Nikon camera he gave me. Soon it became a hobby that was my job.

For the 21^st century woman there is immense pressure to be accomplished in every area of life – career, love, finance etc, how do you maintain balance in your life?

This is a great question. I am actually sitting here now wandering how to do the exact three things. Well my love life (long term) definitely suffers due to being in an ever-changing environment, as I stay married to the road. However I do love the idea of love and have loved so we shall see how the future pans out. My career is what I pursue the most because it is a reflection of me and what I love in my life. Finances are flowing and I like the fact I am self-reliant and have control in what happens. It can of course be testing at times!

I have disaster stories having to do with losing equipment, and I have disaster stories having to do with losing boyfriends. I could write a book, and maybe I will!

Female surfers are sometimes thought of as bikini models before athletes. What are your opinions of female representation in the surf industry and the future of female surfing?

I think girls will be girls – let them flaunt it. They surf great, having both win situations. I think girls are so much more respected for their accomplishments in surfing for how they surf and having a great body just comes along with it.

In a world where everyone can be a photographer (of sorts) how do you keep inspired and your pictures so unique?

My eye and the way I see is unique to me and no one can take that from me. The world is dynamic and the ocean is dynamic and there is always a lot going on. There is enough room for everyone to be a part of the photographic community. It is just another medium in which to see the world. I encourage people to get out there and see the world. Open their minds.

Your portfolio is so varied ranging from surfing, action and adventure shots, culture, to film and TV. What is your favorite genre other than surfing and why?

I would say portraits. I love people and their ways. I can tell a person very quickly through their eyes. They are the gateway to their soul and it interests me to see what people are capable of and made of.

I’ve shot a couple of books for Ben Marcus who says my gift is “the art of flattery.” I shoot beautiful people and I shoot older people and I’ve shot portraits of people who don’t necessarily like having their photo taken. I like the look of surprise on their faces, when they love the portraits that I took. That is very rewarding. I love it.

Your 9-5 can occur anywhere around the world, what travel destinations have left a lasting impact and why?

My favorite 9-5 places have been in the middle of the ocean in the Maldives. It’s a special place. Along with its sister island Sri Lanka. These people live a flowing, ocean lifestyle that is just so satisfying to be a part of. I like the rhythm and the nature of both places. I wish I were there now.

And Africa too. Nature is the big boss there and I feel this urge to always stay connected to such an inspirational place.

Can you think of a time during your surfing/life where you became stuck and how you overcame that plateau?

Oh I’ve been stuck from the 405 Freeway to South Africa and back. I’m always stuck!  Happens once a day at least! Stuck sucks! Whether I’m in the office at my computer thinking of a way to further my work or literally being stuck in front of a wave. My passion keeps pushing me.

What are your hopes and dreams for the future?

To live a happy, productive life and to always appreciate every day for what it is worth. To carry on living simply and keep as open minded a possible even through the hard times.

If the world was ending tomorrow describe how you would spend your last 24 hours?

Sitting on a beach with my family and friends taking a chilled glass of something or other… with my toes dipped into the turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean! Or maybe the Indian Ocean – the Maldives.

Thank you Lucia! 

Until next time water warriors... 

Stay strong, surf well. 
Love Sophia 

Solitude.

You are not alone. Now repeat that sentence until it becomes a mantra in your head, repeat until your tongue furs and the words lose meaning. We are never lonely - not really - how can you be when you have you?

I have solitude when sat astride my surfboard bobbing like driftwood. I marvel about being everywhere all at once, how oceans touch every continent and connect everything. I luxuriate in the feeling of saltwater against my skin, the endless nothingness as my toes splay in the eternal depths. And even though surfing for me is a community affair when its me on that platform ready to take the drop, it is me and me alone.

This week I've been alone. From morning until night completely alone and this isolation has felt like a gift. My entire family and extended family have gone on holiday, a ritual, which for the first time ever, I've not been able to participate in due to work commitments. I thought I was going to go stir crazy being in this big old empty house, I thought I'd scare myself half to death wondering about the creaks but actually quite the opposite has happened. 

I've found myself randomly singing and skipping from room to room. I'm happy, I mean really happy because this time has forced me to reflect and come back to myself. 

We inevitably lose ourselves in relationships which is sometimes good and sometimes bad. For me I became a half person, I (willingly) allowed myself to blur until I was something unrecognizable.  It took getting to the lowest of the low to realize how far I'd wandered from my core self. 

Something of a Renaissance has happened. I've woken up recently with, dare I say it tenacity. I feel like me again, I feel brave and elastic like I'd snap back to my true form no matter what pulls me taunt. I've been vulnerable, I've had sadness carve deep into me but now I'm open for life to fill me whole. 

I hope I can instill in you a sense of self worth, I hope you read this blog post and remind yourself of all the things which make you wonderful. I'm done beating myself up for being imperfect, I'm even more done with allowing others to grind me down - love and light to them all but use them like fertilizer, grow from the life lessons there to be had. 

I often think of the ocean as feminine, a reckless, passionate energy which makes cliffs crumble. She is powerful as are you. 

Stay strong, surf well,
Love Sophia

   

Quit it.

 

The moon lying on the brain

                                                    as on the excited sea    as on

          The strength of fields. Lord, let me shake   

         With purpose.    Wild hope can always spring   

         From tended strength.    Everything is in that.

            That and nothing but kindness.    More kindness, dear Lord

Of the renewing green.    That is where it all has to start:

         With the simplest things. More kindness will do nothing less

             Than save every sleeping one

             And night-walking one

         Of us.

                   My life belongs to the world. I will do what I can.

The Strength of Fields by James L. Dickey 

I quit...

I quit dissatisfaction, altered concepts of myself, negative perceptions of others and dreams 

that render me motionless. Instead I surrender to disarray and embrace it with open arms. 

Occasionally the act of quitting can provide us with space and opportunity to understand 

some fundamental truths about ourselves and our lives. So I examine my reluctance and use 

it as fuel to propel my dreams forward. 

Quitting is taking control of your own destiny and opening up possibility. Knowing how to 

pick your battles is a lesson you'll repeat over and over, there is no shame constantly trying 

to understand this. 

Quitting is a brave elimination process which allows you to examine your core values and 

your real hopes for this world.  It was through quitting the lofty expectations of academia 

that I started this blog and established the Land Locked Surfers Club. Do you think I regret 

quitting? 

Not a chance. 

Your challenge is knowing when to grit your teeth and hold on with bleeding fingernails and when to cut your losses and bail. 

Isn't it beautiful being human? 

Stay strong, surf well. 

Love Sophia. 

Mermaid Hair.

Before I allow this addled brain to be unbridled let me tell you about today's inspiration - Mermaid hair. 

Change is the only constant it life so I've decided to embrace it and let my outside appearance reflect the free spirit I believe I am. Its not a massive commitment but I'm getting woolen dreads in all the hues of the ocean. The beauty of woolen dreads is that they are put in and taken out easily, so I can have my glam moments when I feel like it! 

It doesn't take a shrink to tell you that after a break up I'm trying to redefine myself and whilst adornment seems a frivolous pastime, in conjunction with yoga, meditation and talking things through I know it is a positive endeavor. 

I am living with my arms wide open.

So tell me about you? 

Tribes.

Fashion intrigues me in the same way the cultural norms of the Omo Valley tribes of Ethiopia do. Fashion is culture and whilst it can have its frivolous and sometimes cruel moments (fur anyone)? I see it as a non verbal opportunity for an individual to express aspects of themselves. 

Surfing and its counter culture fashion industry has a strong presence on the high street, from the California surfer girl look to the disheveled street style of skate/surf/snow genres it continues to shape our preferences and define a lifestyle. For me fashion is serendipity, the joy of encountering a garment like a genie in a lamp. Its why I love charity shops and stores with the need to rummage, every discovery is like finding buried treasure. 

In the aftermath of a break up, while I relearn who I am and come back to my core self, fashion provides an outlet in which to vent those pent up emotions. I continue to have a problem with my left eye which has resulted in me wearing glasses again (photos coming soon) so I'm also trying to rework spectacles into the me I am at present. Lavishing attention on my body and wrapping it in clothes which make a statement about me are helping both preserve and sculpt the woman I am. 

Here are pictures me and my sister Emily took on a grey, rainy Tuesday afternoon. 

Anatomy of a wardrobe. 

Look one: Sleek Skateboarder
Hat - Bought for 40p from a car boot sale
Top - H&M sale £7
Ripped Jeans - H&M Sale £10
Stilettos - Hand me up from my littlest sister Laura! 

Look two: 1970's Australian Surfer.
Paisley shirt - £3 from a charity shop
Ripped skinny jeans - £23 New Look
Mustard Wedges - £4 from a charity shop
Sunglasses - Upcycled from my mom! 
Dog - Preloved Jack Russell x border terrier! 

Look three: Urban Yoga. 
Hat - Free *ahem borrowed from my ex boyfriend's housemate!
White Tee - £3 Primark
Ocean Leggings - £6 Primark
Stilettos - As above. 

Look Four: Punk Gentry.
Velvet Jacket - TK Maxx £90
Tartan skinny jeans - £13 Primark
Stilettos - As above.

Whatever style your rocking remember you wear the clothes, the clothes don't wear you! Have fun with fashion and let it amplify the wonderful individual you are underneath the ornaments. 

Stay strong, surf well 

Love Sophia 

x
  

   

   

 

  

The Sea Limits.

Consider the sea's listless chime: 

Time's self it is, made audible,-- 

The murmur of the earth's own shell. 

Secret continuance sublime 

Is the sea's end: our sight may pass 

No furlong further. Since time was, 

This sound hath told the lapse of time. 

The Sea Limits by Dante Gabriel Rossetti