Surf Mama!

'Boobs and Tubes' by Wilma Johnson 

Some people are cool. You can't put your finger on it and if you tried to bottle the stuff you'd still never recreate the magic they naturally possess now I'm not one of these people but I know a person who is. Wilma Johnson is cool precisely because she doesn't have to try too hard to be so. 
International Artist. Neo Naturist. Traveler. Earth Mother. Surfer. You could say she's a real woman with curves and surfboards! Sorry Wilma I could resist a plug there)! 

Now my regular readers will know that Wilma is a bit of a hero of mine - who doesn't love a paint wielding surfer?! So you can imagine my excitement when a preliminary email led to not only a completed interview but the wonderful realization that your hero is as awesome as you always hoped she would be. 

For some unbeknownst reason to me I'm developing a knack for getting people to do interviews. Whether its down to luck or just sheer cheekiness I'm managing to have some pretty awesome people tell me things and do you know what? Surfers are great. I mean really great, everyone I've talked to has had such warmth and humor to our conversations. 

So without further ado (or gushing) please read and enjoy the musings of wonderful Wilma Johnson! 

If you were given only a minute to explain who you are and what you do, what would be the main points?

Okay, in no particular order I’m an artist, a surfer , a writer, a single mother, a performance artist… Which of these seems most important when I wake up in the morning depends on whether I have a deadline and what the waves look like!

For the benefit of non surfers can you articulate what it is about surfing which attracted you to it and why it continues to be a driving force in your life?

I’d been married to a surfer for years, but I was really unsporty earth mother type, then one day I was watching the surfers at Guethary and I thought, I don’t care if I’m an unfit forty something mum, I want to do that, I want to stand on the face of a big fuck off blue wave out there. A lot of people thought I was nuts including myself at times, but once you start you  get hooked.

For me its not just the amazing feeling of getting a wave, I love just sitting out in the ocean looking back at the land, I feel really lucky every time I go out there.

What does it mean to be a modern female surfer living in France?

Confusion –but also confusing people, which is fun! Our original Mamas surf club sparked of a lot of other mamas clubs down the coast, and there are more younger women who surf so attitudes are changing – but between french culture and surf culture its still pretty macho out there! 

What is the landscape like for female surfers in terms of exposure and support in your opinion?

Personally I’ve had a lot of support from the local guys – they saw me wiping out constantly for a couple of years but I think I got a bit of respect for keeping going.

As far as surf industry goes…I guess its all about selling bikinis in the end….just wish they’d make one that stayed on in a wipeout!

Within your life who inspires you?

My dad, who died last year, has always been my inspiration. He had traveled the world several times over – he used to hitch hike round Europe with a suit and a book of poetry in his rucksack in the fifties. He always encouraged me in my wildest schemes  I think he’s have borrowed my board if I’d started a bit earlier.

If you were to give advice to aspiring or beginner surfers what would that be?

The best bit of advice I ever got was ‘ enjoy the wipe out’ . Just go with it and keep your arms over your head – or it might be hard to enjoy. Good news is its much more fun in deep water, so that's something to look forward to if you’re starting on the beach!

How do you balance, work, relationships etc with the desire to always be surfing?

I first read that as ‘how do you balance’- I was going to talk about yoga and my indo board – which I guess shows where my priorities lie! I try not to surf in the mornings when I’m working, and ban myself from checking the swell till noon if I have a dead line . I’m single at the moment so lets just say guys would be better off to ask me on a date during  a flat spell.

Needless to say, although they’d deny it, I would walk away from the perfect waves if my kids needed help with their homework…. But it would be hard.

Can you think of a time during your surfing/working career where you became stuck and how you overcame that plateau?

When I started it was more like climbing out of a pit than being on a plateau - I sometimes wonder how I kept going considering how crap I was, I came out of the water black and blue.

More recently, I had a long series of disastrous sessions when I was finishing my book, Surf Mama. I usually love surfing when I’m stressed, it totally relaxes me, but I did nothing but wipe out for two months. I just kept going out in the water anyway and tried to stay calm….The day I sent the manuscript in I was back on my feet! So I’d say stay Zen and keep paddling  – the better you paddle the better you’ll surf.

Describe your perfect surf destination and what a day in paradise would be like to you?

I went back to Ireland, where I spent ten years as a surf widow last October. I surfed alone on a beach fifteen miles long under Mount Brandon, the light was surreal and the whole experience was very empowering because I’d thought I was too old to start when I lived there.

Having said that it’s been a long tough winter here, so the idea of a palm fringed tropical beach, with a cabana full of my friends and family wouldn't be bad either…pina coladas at sunset, corny but good….

If you had to use only three words to describe your life what would they be?

Weird and wonderful

Thank you Surf Mama! 

xxx