Home is where the waves are....
Morocco chewed us up and spat us out again- thus was our surf trip to Tagazhout. Of the 5 days I planned, three were dedicated to throwing up and not being able to leave my bed. When I wasn't sick other surfers were, so my trip passed like time spent in respite, a kind of blur. Thankfully those sick days were studded with moments of wonder - a dawnie surf and on the last day the sunset surf I experienced with my girls (minus a few fallen), where I began my everlasting love affair with long boarding. Long boarding and I are the real deal, we're for life. Everyone knew before I did that I was a long boarder. I thought I could swerve and slice the wave like a short boarder but turns out I'm more mellow than that.
So I guess I'll leave the swerving and slicing for my time outside the water and stick to being a long boarder serene and steady in the water. Discovering long boarding feels as natural as I imagine coming out of the closet does after years of denying the real you. Even though I still make wipeouts look like an Olympic sport using a long board made me feel like I was skating on the water, or as close to being a Hawaiian princess as this Brummie girl will ever get!
The sea can sometimes feel like a bad boyfriend (especially when you stand on scorpion fish) but I always come back to it, its an enduring love I guess.
Until next time,
Stay strong, surf well
Love
ALL PHOTOS TAKEN COURTESY OF JEMIMA STUBBS PHOTOGRAPHY.
YOU CAN FIND MORE INFORMATION ABOUT HER WORK HERE.
