There's this feeling I get when I'm underwater where I am completely calm. I inevitably imagine I'm a mermaid and bask in the suspended silence only water honors me with.
Its why I find wipe outs infinitely fun (unless I'm about to be smeared across rock that is)! The scary part of a wipe out is the pitch forward, knowing your going to face plant. Once I'm under water however I find myself enjoying the feeling of such immense energy washing over me. I become lost in the sensations of being there so much so that resurfacing feels a little obtrusive (I do however like breathing air and sure as hell need it)!!
I wonder sometimes if my somewhat stunted surf ability is due to my enthusiasm for falling off my board....
There is nothing within the parameters of my own life which compares to the adrenaline rush of a wave way out of your comfort zone. In Senegal I tagged along with competent (and some pro)surfers into waves WAY out of my skill range. I inevitably spent the majority of the session scraping sediment and feeling useless sat out on the shoulder. The roar of a wave behind me felt like the hooves of stampeding horses, I'd whisper 'get your shit together' before promptly being vaulted into the inky darkness of the ominous water beneath.
Recently I've been climbing a lot more. Aside from the great climbing gang I hang out with (hello Redpoint)! I do it in the hope it will increase my core strength and somehow make me a better surfer. Well I've encountered whilst climbing that same little rush of fear when I suddenly realize I've climbed too high and am loosing strength. Trouble is its paralyzing, I cling to the rock like a baby Gibbon and refuse to move. Its most annoying!
Sounds stupid but I tell myself to breathe, I exhale and remember the only thing dangerous is being under confident. Over coming fear is such an important part of life and a lesson I like to learn constantly!
Any who that's enough musing for one day here's some photos from the week!
[Home] You can feel summer is on its way. Hello sunshine!
[Kurdish tea] I randomly bumped into one of the refugee youths I previously worked with. He insisted on treating me to some Iranian food which was wonderful and we finished the meal with the delicious Kurdish tea above. New. Like.
[Suspended Antonio] I thought this was so neat, you get an egg timer with your tea so you know when its the optimum temperature to drink - neat!
Until next time water babies!
Stay strong, surf well!
Sophia
x
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