Standing still.

" The sea's only gifts are harsh blows, and occasionally the chance to feel strong. Now I don't know much about the sea, but I do know that that's the way it is here. And I also know how important it is in life not necessarily to be strong but to feel strong. To measure yourself at least once. To find yourself at least once in the most ancient of human conditions. Facing the blind deaf stone alone, with nothing to help you but your hands and your own head.  "

- Chris McCandless

Perfecting the art of the wipe out. 

I can understand how to a non surfer, the prospect of having a slab of saltwater dumped on your head, in conditions which can only be described as 'Baltic,' may not seem all that appealing. Even now, I still shudder at the kook enthusiasm me and my best friend Jemima exhibited when we took the train to Saltburn and surfed for the first time ever in SNOW and ICE- such was our enthusiasm. 

For most of last year I switched off my 'surfer brain', or at least buried the compulsion in some dark alcove of my mind. This is partly because of the contentment I was/am feeling in my relationship (still going strong with Mr Sunshine my Nigerian Prince)! But largely it was because the pain and frustration of missing the sea was distracting and not very productive to starting a new business. 

What I've learnt is that surfing has become a very big part of my life and denying my desire to pursue this is as futile as putting costumes on dogs. You can't hide your true nature. Surfing is not just waves and adrenaline it is friendship, community, joy, bliss and as Chris McCandless so eloquently put it- an opportunity to feel strong. 

2016 has already started differently. I have come to terms with the fact I am not going to ride off into the sunset on a whim to go live by the sea. I am land locked, I have a job, commitments and I am not in a position to abandon it all to become a beach bum. 

As Surfabella a fellow land locked surfer (who happens to be like, amazing) writes in her article 'Why being a land locked surfer isn't so bad' - sometimes there's merit in the longing, rather than whinging about it you can look at your land locked status not as an affliction but an opportunity to travel, savor every moment and be the only mermaid in the village!! 

So. 2016. Here's to the surf weekends yet to happen. 

Mahalo love bugs. 

Love Sophia x